The town is working hard to educate both locals and visitors about being more conscious of garbage. In addition to recycling tumblers, and large cans labeled for organic and inorganic waste, there were these:
El Chalten has a surprising amount and variety of eating establishments. Despite our long stay we didn’t try them all, but revisited several favorites. We felt really indebted to the kind (and honest!) people at Ahonikenk, where we absentmindedly left our bag with virtually all our cash on the first day(and yes, we found every penny waiting for us), and returned there for several very pleasant meals with the friendly and most entertaining staff. Our favorite meals were those exquisitely prepared by the chef and owner at La Tapera, who clearly loved his work, and handled his place with incredible gusto, energy and passion. Check out the picture of the only dessert we had in town—on our last night there—the flan at El Tapero. Delicious—and beautiful, too.
Returning from long hikes we’d frequently stop off for a cup of tea at La Chocolateria, run by Anabel, who has been scraping together a remarkable living in El Chalten since 1990. Her little cabin was built with trees that were cut down to clear passage for the road north to Lago del Desierto, and she boasts that not a single nail was used. All the beams and logs are bound with leather strips. She makes cakes and other sweets but her real love is making chocolate, which she does remarkably well in her crowded and order/chaos kitchen at the back of the café. She regaled us with all sorts of stories of the “old times” in El Chalten, her continued opposition to paving any of the streets, mountaineers, some local politics, the beginning of some basic services like television and phones. One of our favorites was her recollection of her neighbor, who moved to town and brought a TV along. By then there was electricity in the evenings. They would get together on a weekly basis to watch a late-night movie together, but never managed to catch the end, as power was always cut about 15 minutes prior to the end of the film. She’s a wealth of knowledge about things El Chalten, and still a real pioneer at heart.
Prior to visiting the Chocolateria, we stumbled upon Chaura, a baker living with a mountain guide, who also produced all sorts of lovely goodies—the best of which was her apple pie. We would stop by and pick up a couple of slices, but as opportunely as we had found her, she disappeared—on holiday, one presumes.
Home sweet home….
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