Rented a car for the day so as to make access to the more remote Lago Roca easier. There are only 3 roads that lead out of town, and the “high” road which skirts the massive craggy mountains behind El Calafate leads to Lago(lake) Roca. Within minutes one is completely removed from most traces of civilization, and engulfed in the dust that wafts and swirls around the car on this dirt road.
Extended fields covered with scrub stretch as far as the eye can see, to the shores of the almost turquoise lake. Snow-capped mountains rise on the various horizons.. Out of nowhere a cloud of dust appears in front of us, and when the wind clears the thickest dust, we see that we are at the rear of a huge flock of sheep, being herded down the road by seven gauchos on horseback—one with a sheep thrown across his saddle. The sheep dogs bound back and forth barking madly, and we slowly make our way through the wooly mass. A few kilometers further on there are still sheep running mindlessly after each other down the side of the road. Later still we pass a large estancia (farm) with huge pens and a shearing shed—presumably the destination of the flock.
We reenter the national park after about an hour on the road, and eventually find ourselves at the campground on the banks of Lago Roca. It is a retreat for locals in El Calafate, who come to spend weekends here, fish, put on family barbeques, and even have large birthday parties. The grounds are lovely, well-kept and yet still give the impression of being in the wilderness. We are fortunate to find a young woman who makes us a wonderful salad for lunch.
We come to the end of the road at yet another estancia—one that has a tiny restaurant at the side of a garden of blue and lavender lupines. Stunning. We take a walk down to the lake through the farm, catching sight of some huge birds of prey. Upon our return, the gauchos are just bringing in some horses from the fields, and are kind enough to stop and chat with us.
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